I haven’t cut my hair since July. What do you think about that? My girlfriend is worried I’m turning into a hippie. I might be. I was considering getting a dove and olive branch tattooed on my arm as a sign of pacifism. In fear of being trite, I settled for a seagull.
It actually started one night on the town in Honolulu. We were all going to go get tattoos, Ry Craike, Michael Crawly, Jake "the snake" Patterson and I. I was going to get a peace sign on my arm. A Rastafarian colored peace sign. We ended up going to an empty dance club instead, but the thought lingered on.
Anyways enough of that story. An awesome thing happened to me yesterday. I was surfing some really bad surf just to get in the ocean, approached what looked like an air section and flew out the back to be safe cause it looked dumpy, My board flipped over and I landed on my fins. It filleted my wetsuit open and I went in.
Then in the shower when it burned like hell I noticed my fin had cut about a foot long gash on the back of my leg. About a third of it looking pretty ugly. I called some friends over to look at it because I couldn’t get a good look myself, It wasn’t that bad so we butter flied it up since we had bigger things on our mind.
Our good buddy who you see in my videos regularly was about to have his first born! So we went and drank some beers at a bar next to the birthing center and waited for the news. It was a boy.
I’m ramblin on so I’ll get to the point. I woke up and it looked ugly so I went and got some stitches this morning and I won’t be surfing any time soon. Oh well. You’ll hear from me again soon.
dane



