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7/3/08 I've sort of been neglecting this blog for a while, but it's for a goodreason. Blogging lowers your core score. Since you've heard from me I've been sort of diagnosed withCostrocongitus, sort of gotten all the way better (I still get pain inmy chest), and gone on a surf trip to El Salvador with my friends. Allof which are good things.I leave in just a few days for South Africa and from there I willventure on to Bali. I look forward to all this, but not before a goodbeach day tomorrow for the 4th of July. Surprisingly the surf is funright now and i've been enjoying riding the Fishcuit. If you live in anarea with small surf i suggest you get one or something like it becauseit's made surfing... (more)
So the doctors never really told me what it was. I got some blood tests six days ago, but still no word, although I doubt anything will turn up because he was testing for strep and mono. I went to the doctors and he looked at my throat and saw it was sort of torn up, he was like "Oohh you have a sore throat huh?" and I said yeah, so he focused on that although it was less than 1% of my problems. I was like "what about my chest pain and trouble breathing and fever and chills?" He said that sometimes came along with mono and strep. I don't think it was though. I haven't heard of anyone getting mono since the second grade.Oh well, I'm better now. I'd just like to know what it was so I can avoid... (more)
 My 24, 2008 It was hard, but I pulled out of Fiji completely. I was kidding myself thinking I'd be able to surf anytime soon. So frustrating that there's finally a contest with good waves in the beginning of the period, and I come down with this right before it. I still don't know what it is. I've got the second round of blood tests coming in on Tuesday due to the holiday, and hopefully that will help. Today it feels somewhere between asthma and broken ribs. Every time I inhale I get a sharp pain in my chest and under my ribs in back. So painful.Well it's going to be tough to watch Fiji cause I'm sure the waves will be pumping. Oh well. I'll keep updating when i can.dane (more)
May 23, 2008 I was meant to fly out to Fiji last night for the next WCT event that starts tomorrow. Instead I'm stuck at home nursing some kind of illness that nobody can say what it is. It started 2 days ago with some serious chest pain and something restricting my breathing. I went to urgent care and they did an EKG and a chest x-ray. They sent me to the emergency room where they did more of the same, along with some blood tests. At about 3 AM I was discharged without an answer.Yesterday I was bedridden with some bad flu like symptoms. My brain felt like it was in a deep frier, aches, pain, still some trouble breathing. Hot and cold flashes. Anyways, The point is is that I'm missing the first... (more)
May 23, 2008 I was meant to fly out to Fiji last night for the next WCT event that starts tomorrow. Instead I'm stuck at home nursing some kind of illness that nobody can say what it is. It started 2 days ago with some serious chest pain and something restricting my breathing. I went to urgent care and they did an EKG and a chest x-ray. They sent me to the emergency room where they did more of the same, along with some blood tests. At about 3 AM I was discharged without an answer.Yesterday I was bedridden with some bad flu like symptoms. My brain felt like it was in a deep frier, aches, pain, still some trouble breathing. Hot and cold flashes. Anyways, The point is is that I'm missing the first... (more)
 Here’s some pictures my girlfriend took from my vacation in Tahiti. I say vacation because it was, I just had to make a couple heats to pay for it. Each time I dropped in I was just thinking gotta make it, cause those beers aint cheap. Probably close to $10 a beer. So unnecessary.      The dock i spent many moments thinking about just life and things. I love how calm the water is there.   An old crumbling plantation home long since abandoned. We had to stop and take a picture. It looked as if the vines were eating the house alive.   Me on my dock again. This time at sunset. The sunrises and sunsets in tahiti are the most vibrant and colorful i've ever seen.   Courtney showing her favorite buddy... (more)
Sam’s getting fixed. He suffered a crushed leash plug and severe water logging. Luckily for me the dudes at Channel Islands supplied me with a fresh baby fishcuit. It’s Clementine. And today is a good day because I’m about to take her for her maiden voyage. It’s a beautiful day with a slight ocean breeze, but as most beautiful days this time of year the surf is small. Perfect to break in Clementine. Oh what a glorious day.   (more)
I’m so incredibly mad right now. I just got home and unpacked my bags from a month and a half on the road, which was a glorious moment, but I noticed one thing was missing: my favorite beanie. Now I’m not usually one to fuss about things like this but a good beanie is something you just can’t replace, and Mark Ellison gave me it for my birthday. Bummer. Lots of things went missing on the trip, but they all returned to me. Lost my Ipod for a week and had already quit grieving when I found a secret crevasse in the rental car it had been hiding in. My cell phone disappeared for a day before it rang out its obnoxious ring from a crevasse in the couch. But I just don’t have much hope for my beanie... (more)
Feeding elephants was a treat. They really liked apples and were really appreciative of my generosity. Bimbo was very polite and shy while her sisters were very pushy and tried to eat out of my bucket when I wasn’t looking. Needless to say Bimbo got the most apples.   Koalas are neat and I am considering smuggling one back in my backpack to keep as a friend. Their fur is like felt and they have a good sense of humor.     (more)
A surfboard that I’m very thankful for is the Fishcuit. It has made many small days on this trip a whole bag of fun. Days that I would typically not surf have turned into great surf days, and for that I grateful. It deserves a name. I will name it Sam. Sam the Fishcuit. Sam has been a great companion.     (more)
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